What many people seem to misunderstand is that equalizers are really tools for last resort. Meaning, you can do with a car audio system without equalizers, really.
What equalizers do is to change the frequency envelope of the sound, by adjusting the dials that sets the low, mid, and high frequencies to a certain higher/ lower filter. From this, anyone can assume that it’s perfectly okay to adjust habitually. But you should know that over equalizing your car audio system may cause damage to its integrity, most especially the speakers, in the long run.
So how would you maneuver around equalizers? Do you still need to install one? Let’s find out by learning more about equalizers.
The most common misconception is that equalizers are supposed to be constantly modifiable, such that dashboard varieties of equalizers are always subject to these misuses. An equalizer should really be adjusted only one or twice, during the assembling of the component parts. Even then, skilled electronic guys may very well do without the equalizers only by readjusting designs. Unless if you know, really know your stuff, ask help for the setting. This is also the reason why trunk equalizers always are the common choice for avid car audio enthusiasts, as these equalizer models eliminates the probability of accidental messing up the equalization set in.
Setting a Stereo Equalizer
So how do you get equalizer settings suggestions? No amount of text material can substitute for a paid professional work. Such resources should only serve as guidelines, not actual self help guides to get your best equalizer settings done. As much as it makes a very interesting DiY project, only because professional typically know what they’re doing that’s the reason why I always suggest professional installation before DiY.
The concept behind setting a car stereo equalizer is basically to adjust the existing audio components and match the performance of the speakers (speakers, subs and tweeters) in the most balanced compromise with the room of your vehicle. On open car aspect, it’s a bit trickier since you are to compromise the loss of sound through open spaces. The things you need to consider are the feedback, sonic performance and overall Sound Pressure Levels.
If ever you find out that your equalization settings are way beyond the zero decibels, then there’s something wrong with your arrangements. Try relocating speakers; arrange it in a way where you will receive the most of its sound waves produce. That way, you’ll also get to feel how good your SPLs are proceeding.
The best car audio systems I’ve seen have equalizer settings not far from the zero decibels line. If viewed, it should appear less wavy, that is due to the less need to change frequency levels due to precise arrangements. A flat frequency response, mind you, may get a fraction subjective and different. That is due to the differences on human ear sensitivity. Another thing of note too; boosting the equalizer levels never meant that it will also boost power sound signal levels, but on the contrary actually. In most well made car audio systems, equalizers are instead used to cut down levels to compensate power excess in relevance to the car room space.
So we go the final part of equalizers. Equalizers exist in parametric and graphic equalizers. To be concise as possible, parametric equalizers are for car audio professionals, novices should stay clear of them. Parametric equalizers offer more customization choices for the users and much greater audio control. The only thing is that, this type of equalizer needs an advanced level of understanding about how they work. And they usually take more time to adjust. Graphic equalizers are already laid out. They have presets that any novice than adjust without having to ogle those incomprehensible data.
Wrapping all up, I say again that equalizers are intended to be cures for wayward sound, a problem that can be perfectly solved by arranging your system efficiently. Do not treat equalizers as some kind of power boost to your system.
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